Better Bicycling Fact Sheets

Frame size

Frame size is the most important component of comfort; it cannot be changed
You should have 1" to 2" of standover on road bikes; 3" to 4" on mountain/hybrid
Your local bike shop will be able to help with frame fit determination

Saddle Height

While seated, you should have a slight bend in your knee with your feet on the pedals
Wear your cycling shoes to insure proper seat height
Beginners may want their seat a bit lower for comfort and security

Seat Angle

From the side of the saddle, the nose and back of the saddle should be horizontal
The middle of the saddle should create a dip from front to back
The saddle should be tilted no more than five degrees up or down from level

Handlebars

Handlebar setup is a personal preference; higher for comfort, lower for performance
Drop bars: lowest flat part of bars should be horizontal
Mountain: bend should sweep horizontally

Saddle Design

Saddles come in gender specific as well as comfort and performance models
If you hurt after you and your bike shop adjust it a few times, try a new one
Explore your choices; your saddle should not hurt you or cause numbness

Always wear a properly fitting helmet

Make sure that the helmet fits on top of the head, not tipped back
Always wear a helmet while riding a bike, no matter how short the trip
After a crash or impact on your helmet, replace it immediately

Shorts

Bike shorts include a pad to increase comfort while in the saddle
Tight, close fit keeps fabrics from rubbing your skin and causing irritation
Bike shorts should be worn alone or under another pair of lightweight shorts

Jerseys

Technical fabric of jerseys pulls moisture off of your skin to keep you dry
Jerseys do not absorb moisture; they do not get heavy with perspiration
On cold days, cotton will absorb water and hold it next to your skin, chilling you

Shoes

Stiff soles of cycling shoes allow better power transmission to pedals
Mesh vents allow air to circulate around feet keeping them dry
Shoes are usually designed to accept cleats for clipless pedals

Glasses

Protect your eyes from wind, dirt, debris and the sun while riding
Your front wheel or someone else's rear wheel can shoot glass or dirt at your face
Keep perspiration out of your glasses with a thin headband around your forehead

Gloves

Provide padding to help increase comfort and relieve numbness while riding
Protect your hands in the event of a fall with cycling specific gloves
Experienced cyclists can clean glass and debris off of tires with gloves while riding

Tights

Keep your legs warm and out of the wind with full-length tights when it's cold
Muscles function better when they are warm and protected from the elements
Full-length leg warmers which can be removed during a ride are also a good idea

Use lower gears

Most beginning cyclists push too big a gear; down shift and spin a smaller gear
Low cadence will cause you to fatigue faster and might cause knee pain
Try to spin about 90 rpms; you'll have more energy and get a better workout

No bull

When stopped, don't push off the ground to get started
Leave one pedal in the two o'clock position; push down when you are ready to go
You will have enough momentum to balance and put your other foot on the pedal

Relax

You should be comfortable while you ride
Relax while you ride; it takes energy to grip the handlebar in fear
Change hand positions often, slightly bend your elbows, stretch your neck while riding

Don't rock the boat

Make sure that your saddle height is adjusted properly
Too high and your hips rock; too low causes knee pain
You should have a slight bend in your knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke

Skip the soft shoes

Soft-soled shoes absorb pedaling energy and slow you down
Stiff-soled cycling shoes help you transfer more energy to forward motion
Toe clips and clipless pedals attach your foot to the pedal which increases efficiency

Red light, green light

Restarting from a stop uses more energy than a slowing and not stopping
Time it so that you hit the intersection on green so you don't have to stop
Make sure that you are aware of how your actions affect other vehicles around you

Avoid the wall

Listen to your body while you ride to avoid hitting the wall of exhaustion
Eat before you are hungry and drink before you are thirsty to avoid fatigue
If you experience a lightheaded feeling, get off the bike and get some fluids

Remove wheel

Front: undo brake then wheel quick release and remove
Rear: shift into smallest cog in rear, undo brake then hub quick release; remove
Rear: set bike upside down on handlebars and seat before opening hub quick release

Deflate tire

Remove remaining air by depressing valve
Schraeder is larger, spring loaded valve and must be depressed; car style valve
Presta is all-metal, air sprung narrow valve; unscrew then press

Remove one side of tire from rim

Using tire levers, unseat one side of tire; start away from valve stem
For tight rim/tire combinations, multiple tire levers are needed; do not use metal levers
Many mountain and hybrid bikes tires will come off by hand; practice at home

Remove tube

Remove tube from tire; avoid valve damage by starting away from valve
Keep tube and tire in same relative position to each other to aid in finding puncture
Inspect tube for hole; mark for patching or use your spare tube for replacement

Inspect inside of tire

Feel inside of tire for cause of flat; use caution as cause may puncture your finger
Remove thorn, glass, staple, nail or whatever caused your flat
Inspect tire for damage caused by flat

Install new or patched tube

After repairing damaged tube or retrieving spare, inflate tube to give it round shape
Fold back tire to allow access to valve hole; insert valve first then tube into tire
For presta valve, screw valve closed and install valve nut loosly against rim

Reseat tire bead

Start reseating tire by hand at valve hole; work in both directions
Push valve partially back through rim to insure proper seating of tire bead
Visually inspect tire bead to insure proper tire seating on rim

Inflate tire

Inflate tire slowly, checking for bulges which might indicate improper bead seating on rim
Deflate if bulge occurs; carefully re-inspect and reseat bead on rim
Inflate to desired pressure

Install on bike

Front: install wheel; tighten hub quick release and attach brakes; make sure it is straight
Rear: install wheel by placing chain on top and bottom of small cog
Rear: push pulley closest to you forward; drop hub down into frame and tighten

Ride away

Check brake and hub quick releases; make sure that tire does not rub brakes or frame
Check rear derailleur to make sure that shifting is still smooth
If anything is wrong, the wheel is probably crooked; make sure wheels are in straight

Punctures

Glass, thorns, nails, staples, screws; anything sharp can cause a flat
These result in slow leaks that can take up to 48 hours to go completely flat
Usually easily repaired with patch kit; not normally associated with severe tire damage

Pinch flats

Compression of the tube between your rim and a hard surface
Known as 'snakebites,' these are dramatic, audible flats that deflate quickly
Hard to repair with patches; replace tube or use oval patches; rim damage possible

Tire damage

Improperly adjusted brakes can rub through tire and cause tube to blow out of tire
Maintaining proper tire pressure helps prevent flats and maximizes rolling efficiency
Worn tires leave less rubber between the tube and the road, decreasing flat protection

Rims

Spokes and sharp spots on the inside wall of the rim can cause flats
Recurring flats are usually caused by sharp metal on the rim or part of a spoke
Use a file or sandpaper to buff off the sharp spot and remove any burrs

Flat forensics

Carefully studying where the hole in the tube will allow you to find its cause
Make sure that you keep the wheel, tube and tire in the same orientation
Flats may be caused by imperfections in the tube; these may be impossible to detect

Find the hole

Pump tube with air; listen and feel around the tube for the leak
Mark hole with chalk or hold under your thumb
Use the sandpaper or another abrasive to rough up tube around hole

Apply glue

Apply glue to the size of a quarter, centered around the hole
Allow two to three minutes for glue to set; glue will turn cloudy
Make sure that the glue area is slightly larger than the patch

Apply patch

Remove patch with plastic still attached; do not peel plastic off of patch
Place sticky, non-plastic side down, centered over hole
Slide it around in a small circle to ensure even distribution of glue

Wait and hold

Hold patch firmly between thumb and forefinger for about three minutes
Time taken now will ensure that your patch will hold later down the road
If at home, place tube flat between two books and place heavy object on top

Check it

Inspect to make sure that the patch bonded to tube all the way around
Plastic will keep glue from sticking to inside of tire; wipe off excess
Patches can last forever if properly applied

Brake types

Road bikes have center-mount, side pull brakes
Mountain, touring, cyclocross and hybrid bikes have cantilever mount brakes
Linear, side pull cantilevers or vee brakes are the most common on new bikes

Noises

Squeals and scrapes are the most common noises which can be fixed
Brakes squeal from pads hitting the rim flat; toe in brake pads to stop noises
Scraping means you need to either sand the metal out of the pads or replace them

Pad wear

Brake pads should be replaced when you get down to about ¼" of pad left
Properly toed in brakes wear at a slight angle; too much and they will wear faster
Front brake pads last longer because the front brake is stronger

Lever adjustment

Your brakes will hit sooner if you unscrew the barrel adjusters around the housing
You can shorten the reach with a screw that points toward the other brake lever
Your first lever adjustment should start with the barrel adjusters all the way in

Maintenance

Find out how to use the brake cable quick release at the lever; this will aid in cleaning
Inspect brake pads for wear or metal shards; sand pads to remove metal
Sand pads to improve braking; heat from braking will glaze pads and reduce power

Know your ability

Take tools for work that you can perform
Try to fix things if you are sure that you can improve how they work
Do not depend on others for your mechanical needs

Know your bike

Maintain your bike or let a bike shop do it for you; twice a year for heavy use
Catch problems before they happen on the road with regular inspections
If you have hard to find items on your bike, stock up when you can

Know your ride

If you are going to be far from civilization, prepare with extra tools or parts
For short rides, you might not carry any tools if you don't mind walking
Urban areas may have more glass in the roadway; bring patches and a tube

Know your tools

Tire levers, tube, pump and patch kit for flats
Allen wrenches, chain tool and screwdriver for mechanicals
Understand which tools are needed for your bike; tools don't fix things, people do

Know your options

If you carry a phone for emergencies, make sure you have reception on your ride
First aid can be an important part of a tool kit; know how to use it
Stop to help others but only attempt to fix what you know you can

Threads

Pedals, stem bolts or waterbottle bolts, grease everything before installing
Boat trailer bearing grease is inexpensive and waterproof
Grease all flats on bolt heads that will be up against other metal pieces

Bearings

Bearings should be repacked (cleaned and re-greased) about yearly
Races are smooth, precision surfaces on which bearings roll; clean then re-grease
Bearings are easily destroyed if you don't understand how to adjust them properly

Cranks

Grease crank bolts, never grease bottom bracket tapers; you may damage crankarms
Grease chainring bolts and surfaces where chainrings attach to crankarm
Clean out pedal threads with a rag, bristle brush or degreaser

Derailleurs

Take care not to lay bike down on its derailleurs; you might damage them
Remove dirt or lube related buildup with a rag and flathead screwdriver
Inspect derailleur cables and housing for cracking and fraying; replace if necessary

Headset

Bearings in your headset need annual re-packing; more often if you ride in the rain
Clean bearing surfaces, re-grease and replace bearings; use grease to hold them in
Clean old grease out with rag, inspect bearing for wear and replace if necessary

Seatpost

Use sand paper to smooth out inside of seat tube to avoid scratching seatpost
Apply liberal coating of grease to top three inches inside seat tube
Grease help keep water out of frame tubes and allow easy removal of seatpost

Hubs

Hubs roll on bearings like your headset; regular service is necessary
Turn axle by hand to check hub status; if it feels loose and gritty, clean and re-grease
Riding on hubs with no grease can destroy bearings and races

Noises

Creaks are usually caused by metal shifting on metal under stress, like pedaling
Every place two pieces of metal are touching, there should be grease between them
Locate noise and silence by re-assembling with a liberal coating of grease

How tight is tight?

Most parts on a bike do not need to be as tight as humanly possible, just snug
Turn bolt until threads are buried then a quarter turn to tight
Grease on threads helps to overcome friction and allows proper fastening

Visibility

Lock your bike in a highly visible area close to pedestrian traffic
Streetlights provide additional security at night
Avoid locking your bike behind large objects that obscure visibility

Securing you bike

Lock your frame, wheels, seatpost and anything else easily removed
Seat/seatpost locks are one-time installations and are available at your local bike shop
Lock your bike to a large metal immovable object

U-locks

Rigid and U shaped with a cylindrical lock core that is impossible to pick
Made of heavy tempered steel that is very hard to break
Most secure, most expensive, hardest to use locks; considered the standard in cities

Cable locks

Great for short time periods where your bike is highly visible and a low chance of theft
Manufacturers are combining security of U locks with ease of use of cable locks
Smaller, lighter, less expensive, easier to use but less secure than a U lock

Carrying a lock

Most locks come with a mount for your bike to keep the lock out of the way
Backpacks, panniers or any other bag is a quick, easy place to stow a lock
Be sure that the lock does not interfere with safe operation of the bike

Time factor

Short periods away from your bike require a less secure lock; try a cable lock
The longer you will be away from your bike, the more secure it should be
Use the combination of a U lock and a cable lock for overnight parking

Extras

Register your bike with local and national registration service
Register your key numbers with the company that made your lock
Mark your bike in an identifiable way to aid in its recovery if stolen

Always lock your bike, especially at home (even in the garage, apartment building or college dorm).
Lock to a fixed, immovable object like a parking meter or permanent bike rack. Be careful not to lock to items that can be easily cut, broken or removed. Be careful that your bike cannot be lifted over the top of the object to which it is locked.
Lock in a visible and well-lit area.
Lock in a location where there are other bikes. The chances are better that there will be a bike with a less secure lock than yours. Thieves will usually go for the easiest target.
When using a U-lock, position your bike frame and wheels so that you fill or take up as much of the open space within the U-portion of the lock as possible. The tighter the lock up, the harder it is for a thief to use tools to attack your lock.
Always position a U-lock so that the keyway is facing down towards the ground. Don't position the lock close to the ground. This makes it more difficult for a thief to attack it.
Always secure your components and accessories, especially quick-release components, with a secondary cable lock.
Don't lock your bike to itself (the front wheel locked to frame). It can be easily lifted and carried away.
Don't lock in the same location all the time. A thief may notice the pattern and target your bike.
Don't lock to anything posted illegal. Check with area law enforcement agencies for local bike parking regulations.
Always check your lock before leaving your bike to be sure you have secured it properly.
For the greatest theft deterrence, use two locks such as a U-lock and a locking cable. The longer it takes a thief to get through your bike security, the less likely your bike will be stolen.

Ride on the right

Always ride in the same direction as traffic
Use the lane furthest to the right that heads in the direction that you are traveling
Slower moving cyclists and motorists stay to the right

On the road

The same laws that apply to motorists apply to cyclists
Obey all traffic control devices, such as stop signs, lights, and lane markings
Always use hand signals to indicate your intention to stop or turn to motorists and cyclists

Always wear a properly fitting helmet

Make sure that the helmet fits on top of the head, not tipped back
Always wear a helmet while riding a bike, no matter how short the trip
After a crash or any impact that affects your helmet, visible or not, replace it immediately

Ride predictably

Ride in a straight line and don't swerve in the road or between parked cars
Check for oncoming traffic before entering any street or intersection
Anticipate hazards and adjust position in traffic accordingly

Be visible

Wear brightly colored clothing at all times
At night, use a white front light, red rear light or reflector and reflective tape or clothing
Make eye contact with motorists to let them know you are there

Drive cautiously

Reduce speed when encountering cyclists
In inclement weather, give cyclists extra trailing and passing room
Recognize situations that may be potentially dangerous to cyclists and give them space

Yield to cyclists

Cyclists are considered vehicles and should be given the appropriate right of way
Cyclists may take the entire lane when hazards, road width or traffic speed dictate
Motorists should allow extra time for cyclists to traverse intersections

Be considerate

Scan for cyclists in traffic and at intersections
Do not blast your horn in close proximity to cyclists
Look for cyclists when opening doors

Pass with care

Leave at least three feet of space between your car and a cyclist when passing
Wait until road and traffic conditions allow you to safely pass
Check over your shoulder after passing a cyclist before moving back to normal position

Watch for children

Children on bicycles are often unpredictable - expect the unexpected and slow down
Most children don't have adequate knowledge of traffic laws
Children are harder to see because they are typically smaller than adults

Remove yourself

Make every attempt to get out of their way
Yield lane position by turning or slowing down and getting behind them
Be prepared to execute emergency maneuvers

Avoid contact

Do not return any gestures or shouts
Do no make eye contact
Do not push for proper lane position to avoid challenging the driver

Report them

Report vehicle license plate and description to state and local police
Tell local bike clubs and advocacy organizations about the driver
Write a letter to your city councilmen, state legislators, governor and Congressmen

Ride on the right

Always ride with the flow of traffic
Do not ride on the sidewalk
Allow yourself room to maneuver around roadway hazards

Yield to traffic in busier lanes

Roads with higher traffic volumes should be given right-of-way
Always use signals to indicate your intentions to switch lanes
Look behind you to indicate your desire to move and to make sure that you can

Yield to traffic in destination lane

Traffic in your destination lane has the right-of-way
Making eye contact with drivers lets them know that you see them
Signal and make your lane change early, before you need to

Directional Positioning

Position yourself in the right-most lane that goes in the direction of your destination
Ride in the right third of the lane
Avoid being overtaken in narrow-lane situations by riding in the right third of the lane

Speed Positioning

Position yourself relative to the speed of other traffic
Left-most lane is for fastest moving traffic, right-most for slower traffic
Yield to faster moving vehicles by staying to the right in the lane

Positioning for turns

Before a turn: scan, signal and move into the lane that leads to your destination
Ride in the right third or middle of the lane, as lane width dictates
To traverse multiple lanes, move one at a time, scanning and signaling each move

Avoiding turn lanes

If your lane turns into a right turn only lane, change lanes before the intersection
Changing lanes too late could result in an overtaking motorist turning in front of you
Maintain a constant position relative to the curb or shoulder during a turn

Beware of blind spots

Most drivers do not always expect to see cyclists on the roadway
Do not ride next to another vehicle unless you are in a different lane or passing
If you can't see bus, truck or car mirrors, drivers can't see you

Signaling

Signal well before the intersection; make sure you are in proper lane position
Left arm out and down with palm to the rear to indicate stopping
Left or right arm straight out to indicate left or right turn

Scan

Constant identification of potential hazards in front and behind as well as to each side
Scanning allows you to avoid dangerous situations before they happen
Scan for motorists, road conditions, pedestrians, animals, traffic signals

Obey, obey, obey

Cyclists, just like motorists, must obey all traffic control devices
It takes longer to travel through an intersection on bike; plan to stop for yellow lights
Avoid cars that run red lights by waiting for the signal to turn green and scan to make sure it's clear

Detection

Bicycles must activate a vehicle detector just like a motor vehicle
Detectors are embedded in the roadway; look for squares cut into the roadway
Detectors use magnetic forces to pick up vehicles, not weight

Unresponsive signals

In most states, after three minutes, you can treat a red light as a stop sign
Pass through a red light only as a last resort
Yield to other vehicles while crossing the roadway

Emergency

If a car turns right while you are next to it, you will have to turn, stop or hit it
If you don't have your hands on the brakes or just can't stop, you must turn
The Instant Turn is faster than a normal turn but requires practice

Handlebar jerk

The first move is to quickly jerk your handlebar LEFT for a split second
This sudden move will make the bike lean to the right and set up your turn
It's important that you do not turn to the left, only your handlebar should move briefly

Turn

After your bike is leaned to the right, you must lean in and initiate the turn
Remember that there might be an obstruction around the turn; pay attention
Coming close to the car is ok as it would result in only a glancing blow

Pedal position

Your right foot should be in the 12, 3 or 9 o'clock position to avoid hitting a pedal
Pedal position is personal preference; make sure you are confident in your position
Leaning hard on the outside pedal will help you maintain traction in the turn

Avoidance

Avoiding this circumstance is the best way to ride safely
Remember to take the lane if it too narrow to share safely; your safety is up to you
Every cyclist should learn and practice the instant turn, rock dodge and quick stop

Emergency

A quick stop will allow you to safely stop your bike
If you must stop to avoid an obstacle
You do not want to lose control of your bicycle in an emergency situation

Brake application

Front brakes have the most power but can cause a crash if misused
Either brake causes weight to shift forward, increasing the power of the front brake
Brakes need to be adjusted properly for maximum braking control

Weight transfer

Shift weight back over the rear wheel by sliding behind the saddle
Use your arms to push the bike out in front of you
Keep the handlebars straight; do not try to turn

Front brake

Practice using your front brake to avoid going over the bars
Braking hard with the front brake causes weight to shift forward
Apply more front brake than rear; release the brake a bit if the rear wheel skids

Rear brake

The rear brake has less stopping power than the front brake
Too little weight on the rear wheel will cause it to skid
Not enough weight on the rear wheel will cause the rider to go over the bars

Plan ahead

If you are familiar with the traffic patterns, be sure to get in the correct position early
Keep in mind the relative speed between you and other traffic; plan accordingly
Be aware of road conditions that would impede your progress across lanes

Scan

Look for traffic, pedestrians and hazards in front of you and behind
Identify lane markings and traffic control devices affecting next intersection
Note bus stops, driveways, crosswalks and other special traffic zones

Signal

Signal your intention to turn or change lanes if your speed is near other traffic
Signaling may not be necessary if overtaking traffic speeds won't allow time to see it
Signal only if you think that oncoming traffic can react safely

Relative speed may require you to move quickly and decisively when it is safe to do so
In high speed overtaking traffic situations, cross all lanes at once when safe
Move after signaling in low- and same-speed traffic situations

Improvise

If you get caught between lanes while crossing traffic, ride the white line until clear
Your safety is paramount while changing lanes; if traffic is too heavy, use crosswalks
Ride to red light then move to left turn lane if volume and speed do not allow crossing

Safety considerations

Bikes are not required to travel in bike lanes when preparing for turns
Never ride within three feet of parked cars; beware of the door zone
Avoid bike lanes that you think are poorly designed or unsafe; alert your local gov't

Intersections

Avoid riding in lanes that position you on the right side of a right turn lane
Bike lanes should stop before an intersection to allow for bikes to make left turns
Always signal as you move out of a bike lane into another traffic lane

Debris

Report obstructions and poor maintenance to your local government
Avoid riding immediately adjacent to curbs where trash collects
If debris forces you out of the bike lane, signal your move out into traffic

Parked cars

Never ride within three feet of parked cars
Watch for brake lights, front wheels, signals and driver movements
Position yourself in the field of vision of a motorist pulling out of a parking space

Right turns

Avoid riding in lanes that position you on the right side of a right turning motorist
Move out of the right turn lane if you are not turning right
Ride in the rightmost lane that goes in the direction that you are traveling

Left turns

Move out of the bike lane well in advance of the intersection; signal every move
Position yourself in the rightmost left-turning lane
Reposition yourself after executing the turn; remain clear of parked cars

Courtesy

Respect other trail users; joggers, walkers, bladers, wheelchairs all have trail rights
Respect slower cyclists; yield to slower users
Obey speed limits; they are posted for your safety

Announce when passing

Use a bell, horn or voice to indicate your intention to pass
Warn other well in advance so you do not startle them
Clearly announce "On your left" when passing

Yield when entering and crossing

Yield to traffic at places where the trail crosses the road
Yield to other users at trail intersections
Slow down before intersections and when entering the trail from the road

Keep right

Stay as close to the right as possible, except when passing
Give yourself enough room to maneuver around any hazards
Ride single file to avoid possible collisions with other trail users

Pass on left

Scan ahead and behind before announcing your intention to pass another user
Pull out only when you are sure the lane is clear
Allow plenty of room, about two bike lengths, before moving back to the right

Be predictable

Travel in a straight line unless you are avoiding hazards or passing
Indicate your intention to turn or pass
Warn other users of your intentions

Use lights at night

Most trail users will not have lights at night; use a white front and red rear light
Watch for walkers as you will overtake them the fastest
Reflective clothing does not help in the absence of light

Do not block the trail

For group rides, use no more than half the trail; don't hog the trail
During heavy use periods (holidays and weekends) stay single file
Stop and regroup completely off of the trail

Clean up litter

Pack out more than you pack in
Encourage others to respect the path
Place all litter in its proper receptacle

Limitations for transportation

Most paths were not designed for high-speed, high volume traffic
Use paths keeping in mind their recreational nature
It might be faster to use roads and avoid the traffic on the paths during heavy use

Interstate Riding click for photos and guidelines.
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*League of American Bicyclists*
1612 K Street NW Suite 800 Washington , DC 20006-2850 www.BikeLeague.org	Phone: 202-822-1333 Fax: 202-822-1334 E-mail: bikeleague@bikeleague.org